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The Importance of Workflow
Page Orb

The word “workflow” seems to be thrown out a lot these days in regard to photography. Some people cringe at its very mention, others have written it off altogether because their “figure it out as I go” system has worked for years so why change it now. To people who have not yet embraced the importance of workflow I ask them if they cook. Anyone who has cooked knows that creating a meal with nothing more than a bunch of ingredients and an idea can be trying at best and more realistically, wasteful. Thankfully for those of us who love to eat, recipes exist, saving us time and frustration. A photographers workflow is nothing more than a recipe—a way to get from an idea to a high quality photograph. 

So where does the workflow begin and end? Photography, unlike other art forms, takes place over time and space. We go into the field, capture images and then return home to process them. A sculptor or painter may work over the course of many days, weeks, months or years but they always return to the same studio, and work in the same manner.  It’s important for photographers to be aware of the wide span of their work environment to be able to understand and create a workflow that encompasses it all.  Workflow should begin before you even pick up your camera and end when you have produced an image for an intended output. Each area of photography, the capture, the processing of images, and the output should have its own set of steps. Here are some basic rules of thumb or steps to consider.

Step 1- Capture. The field is a photographer’s canvas. This is where our passion lies. As important as it is, I find that many photographers fail to be as diligent about preparing for this step of their workflow as they would when they sit down at the computer to work on images. Be prepared for your shoot. Take time before you push the shutter button to make sure that all of your settings are correct and that you have your lenses, batteries, etc. While you’re in the moment of making an image be deliberate, conscious of composition, and exposure. Just because the RAW converter can correct exposure—it is still a limited tool and will NEVER take the place of good exposure knowledge. Just because gausian blur will give us the appearance of shallow depth of field doesn’t mean that we shouldn’t have done it in camera with your aperture.

Step 2- Processing Images. This is the area where most people get bogged down, confused and typically clog their computers with copies and copies of images. Take a deep breath and upload your images. Determine a way to name and organize your files and try not to change it. I file mine by capture date— I never named my slides individually just because I could write on each slide mount so I’m using a similar method here. Look at your images—I like Lightroom® as a lightbox tool but many people use Adobe Bridge®  or similar products. Chose ONE method and stick with it. Find a way to mark the images you like (this is why I like Lightroom, I’m able to rate my photos) and separate them from the ones you dislike. Only throw away the real duds—photos of lens caps, or over exposures that could look like the light at the end of the tunnel. Keep the “hmm maybe’s.” You may use them later in montages or for examples of not so good images. Proceed with adjusting and processing your images. Always work globally first, then make local adjustments second.

Step 3- Output. This is when all your time and hard work comes to fruition. The reward. Everyday there are more and more options for output. You can print your images, you can outsource your images to a professional lab, you can upload images to a website or share them on sites like flickr.com. You can even publish your own book of images. Regardless of the method of output always be aware of the size of your image and the specific steps provided to optimize the results.

The basic steps to creating a workflow are just that—basic. It’s not rocket science, it’s not even as complicated as learning the relationship between f-stops and shutter speeds. The most complicated aspect is determining your processes and then sticking to it. With a basic path in mind, the most important thing to consider about photography is that a standard workflow or recipe is only a starting point. While it  lays out the best way to progress from start to finish, each photographer needs to understand how they work most efficiently and what they are comfortable taking on to determine the best way to get from raw ingredients to the finished meal. Think about this newsletter as less of a step by step instruction manual, and more of an opportunity to create your own process, in the end making you a better photographer.





 
What’s Your Workflow?
How do you determine the process that works best for you? Ask the pros how they do it. Over the next few months we will be surveying photographers on their daily photography practices. Each newsletter will give you a glimpse of a photographer’s process from start to finish.

Elizabeth Stone is a photographer whose career has focused on fine art photography for exhibition, publication and book jacket design. Her work has been exhibited at the Seattle Art Museum, the Newport Art Museum and the Museum of the Rockies as well as in galleries in the west. Her work has been published in BARK magazine, Offspring magazine, Outdoor Photographer magazine and Northern Lights magazine. Elizabeth is also an instructor at Rocky Mountain School of Photography.

Capture
What are the steps you take to get ready to photograph (the night before, or hour before you go)?
Make sure my battery is full and I have all the equipment I need. Have in my mind an idea of what I want to accomplish and enough time -  not scheduling things too tightly so I can allow things to unfold. Ideally, I love to have an entire day with no other commitments.

Right before you take a photograph, do you work slowly, deliberately, set up each shot? Or do you work more spontaneously and just shoot?
I go both ways.  As a photographer starting out I worked more deliberately and was very careful setting things up. Now, I tend to react more spontaneously and very quickly working with a concept in mind.

In general, do you pre-visualize and pre-compose or do you find your photographs as they happen/you happen upon them? 
Both. It depends on the circumstance. Often I will head out photographing with an idea (concept) in mind, how I want the images to look, then go out and create them. Pretty pictures seem to occur when I just happen upon them.

How often do you photograph?
Weekly.

Process
Briefly describe your process after downloading your images from the camera and before you get into local adjustments? What software do you use? Do you edit right away?

Yes, I do an initial edit right away, mainly getting rid of images that are way off on exposure or sharpness. I back up the files immediately on 2 separate external hard drives. I use Bridge® for  most editing. I don’t do a real edit for a few months.

How do you name your files?
Folders of subject matter, then folders of geography within that subject matter and date.  Usually name by place and date (zion virgin river 11 -07).

Do you do much work on your images in Photoshop or do you perform the basic adjustments (contrast, saturation, and crop) and call it good?
Yes, I use the Raw converter for a lot of the adjustments but then 99% go in to Photoshop for fine tuning and masking, sharpening, sizing, etc.

How often do you edit your images?
Seriously? 1 – 2 x per year.

Output
What is your most common form of output: print, web or multimedia?

Print and website.

Do you print your own images or do you outsource your printing?
Print 99% of my own.

What type of printer(s) do you use?
Epson 1280 & 7800

What’s your favorite paper?
Don’t have a real favorite. I use Digital Art Supplies Trans film, Crane Museo Silver rag for B&W, and Hahnemuhle Photo Rag.

Describe your web presence (website, member of photography/artist social networking sites, blog)?
Website.

If you have a website who/what company created it?
visualserver.com – love them.

How often do you go through your typical output process?
Weekly, often making proof prints for real evaluation.

What’s your favorite tool, gadget, resource or website?
I still love my lensbaby.

 

 

Preparing Your Camera for a Photo Shoot

There’s a lot to do before heading out on a photo shoot, much of which is pretty intuitive: pack your camera and lenses, check your batteries, gather your gear. Even after years of photographing I find there are so many things to set or check on the camera that I sometimes think I’m ready when I’m not. And the last thing I want to do is get home after a great day only to realize that my settings were wrong and my photos are subpar. As such, I offer the following pre-shooting suggestions.

To Check the Day or Night Before the Shoot:

• Develop a shot list of all your photo ideas, as well as how you imagine shooting them. Sometimes I treat the shoot like a project—a mini assignment of sorts to formalize my preparations for and attitude about the outing.
• Format your memory cards, making sure that you “format” and do not “erase all.” It is also worth throwing a couple extra cards in your bag just in case.
• Format your memory cards, making sure that you “format” and do not “erase all.” It is also worth throwing a couple extra cards in your bag just in case.
• Charge all batteries and carry extras depending on the anticipated length/location of the shoot.
• Have a master list of everything that you need in your camera bag—I absolutely make sure to pack everything on this list the day or night before.
• If you will be downloading images while traveling, make sure that you have the proper gear. I carry a small Apple laptop, a card reader, and an external drive that uses its USB plug to draw power off my computer. 

Important Camera Settings to Check Before Every Shoot:

• Exposure Mode. When I’m shooting in a simple exposure situation, I use aperture preferred or shutter preferred; if I’m shooting in a difficult or high-contrast situation, I use manual. These are the only three exposure modes that I use.
• Metering Mode. When using aperture-preferred or shutter-preferred settings, I use the camera’s smart meter mode, which with a Canon is called “evaluative” and with a Nikon is termed “matrix.” When in manual mode, I always use spot metering , or, if not available, I use what a few cameras call partial metering.
• Exposure Compensation. When shooting in aperture-preferred or shutter-preferred mode, exposure compensation may be very useful. Make sure that when you start your shoot the exposure compensation is set to zero. Then calculate your exposure and use this feature if needed.
• ISO. Keep as low as possible given light conditions to reduce noise and boost quality.
• White Balance. Auto white balance is fine for most situations but remember you can fine tune the color temperature of your scene using the white balance settings (shade, cloudy, tungsten, etc.) or learning to use custom-white balance in tricky light conditions.
• Image Quality. There may be occasions when you use large JPEGs for the ability to take more frames per second or more images per card.  In other situations you may use RAW so you have larger images and more control over each image when processing. Either way, make sure that your image quality is on the appropriate setting for the shoot.
• Picture Style. Different picture styles, including portraiture, landscape and black and white, are available on many cameras today to mimic the look of film that photographers once used during these scenarios. Make sure that you are using the setting that you want.

Camera Settings to Check Occasionally:

• Drive Mode. Options include single shot, continuous shooting or self timer. Know what you want and set accordingly.
• Auto-Focus Mode. This setting assumes that either the subject is still or you are following actions, like at a sports event.
• Auto-Focus Point Selection. Most cameras come set on automatic focus point, meaning that the camera selects what it thinks the subject is. I recommend changing this to center auto focus point for most of your shooting.
• Focus Button Front/Back. Most cameras are set to focus with the same button that takes the exposure. I switch focus to the back of my camera (so that I can press it separately with my thumb) for 100 percent of my shooting to keep focus separate from exposure. On most cameras, there is a custom function to let you switch this—read your instruction manual.
• Highlight Tone Priority. This is a new technology that gives you one more stop of handling high contrast to keep highlights from washing out in high-contrast situations (like bright sun). Newer cameras are likely to have this feature, though it may be listed under a different name. Again, check your manual.
• Highlight Alert. This feature lets you know when highlights are washed out. After the photo has been taken, washed-out areas blink black in the image that appears on your camera’s display screen. This helpful (though sometimes annoying) option is available on most digital cameras.
• Mirror Lock Up. Most digital SLRs contain a mirror-lock up setting that helps eliminate camera shake when using a tripod. This is most important when using long lenses.
• Review Time. Most cameras come set with review time on 2 seconds, which is the amount of time you have to view your photos on the display screen before the image disappears. A good option is to set the review time to “hold” so that the image stays until you depress the shutter button half way. This is a very helpful setting to know about, as there are times when we want the image off completely to reduce distraction.

A Final Note on Settings: Many cameras have custom settings for different kinds of shoots—landscapes, portraits, etc.—so that you can set and save your own preferences. This is a great, time-saving alternative to reloading your favorite settings each time you shoot a specific composition/scenario.

I have repeated the main points from above as a downloadable checklist that you can cut out, laminate and put in your camera bag. You may also want to add you own settings/preferences—though these are the most common settings that I check, there are others that I occasionally change or check, too.

Coming Up! Next month Neil takes a look at the world of Macro equipment. Neil has so much information on this topic that it will take two newsletters to fit it all in.

 




Marcy’s Recommendations. Marcy James is our new curriculum director at Rocky Mountain School of Photography. In Marcy’s new position she spends hours and hours devoted to researching products, reading books, visiting Web sites and she’s always excited about something. We decided to share some of her favorite things in our newsletters. This month Marcy found two new Web sites.

www.uber.com  is a social networking site that provides photographers with blogs, web galleries and all sorts of other tools to help them further their web networking.

www.photojojo.com is devoted to providing its subscribers with photography tips and tricks that certainly aren’t run of the mill ideas.

Is your schedule tight? Check out our RMSP Calendar to see what we have available
when you can fit it in.

 

 

  

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